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Travels to Gili Trawangan, Indonesia - Lessons about healing from a mare named Onyx with Big Head Disease.

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Updated: Feb 15












Finding My Place with Onyx


January 2025 had me all out of sorts. I felt lost in a sea of social media identity crisis, unsure whether I was a doctor or, as I was often referred to as , a massage therapist. My work had strayed so far from conventional practice that it was hard to differentiate my techniques from those of lay practitioners. Heading to Indonesia to help rehabilitate the rescue horses on the Gili Islands only deepened my uncertainty—did I truly have anything of value to offer?


I reached Gili Trawangan by boat from Bali around midday. A few hours later, my host, Dr. Bec Caslick from Perth, Australia, introduced me to the horses at the rescue center, Horses of Gili. Most of these horses were actually ponies, known as Sumba or Lombok ponies based on their island of origin. These incredibly resilient ponies were used locally for pulling carts or racing, with many of the injured ones at the rescue coming from racing. In addition to these two breeds, there were also imported and hybrid horses at the rescue. These horses often ended up here because they struggled to adapt to the local diet, becoming very ill with a condition called Big Head disease, and were sometimes found lying down due to their extreme weakness.


Big Head Disease, also referred to as nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism, arises from a imbalance of the minerals calcium and phosphorous . This results from the local diet of native tropical grasses which are high in oxalates (compounds that bind calcium making it unavailable) and rice bran, which has a reversed calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 1:17. Horses need a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 2:1 in their diet. When this balance is disturbed, their ability to absorb these minerals is compromised. While local ponies have adapted to this diet and appear healthy, imported horses and crossbreeds suffer greatly, with their joints and ligaments deteriorating due to calcium loss. The disease  is characterized by abnormal bony growths on the face causing a widened, misshapen nasal bridge. Other symptoms include stiff movements, tender joints, loose teeth, and weakness. Often reversible with calcium supplementation, if the damage to a young growing horse is severe enough, it can become permanent.


As I observed the rescue horses, Dr. Bec turned to me and asked,

"Is there anything you can do to help her?"


She pointed toward a spindly, crouching, uncomfortable-looking black horse.


“She has Big Head Disease. She could barely walk to the beach this morning.”


I looked at the horse, and a narrative of defeat started playing in my head. Her legs and joints bent at odd angles, her body collapsing over them like a table about to buckle.


Great. I get to fail on day one.


Then another thought pushed through and I remembered why I was here.

'The horses of Gili Island have something to teach you' had been the sole voice in my head when I first saw Bec's social media post inviting veterinarians to come to Indonesia


Well, I know I can at least help that poor poll... maybe those hocks, too.


The rescue team at Horses of Gili was taking care of her nutrition, so I focused on her body—and, we all worked together on her spirit, doting over her gloriousness and willing her to expand, our hearts waiting.


Onyx’s Recovery


My first manual therapy session with Onyx went well. The rescue’s founder, Tori, has an incredible bond with both the horses and the people around her, creating an atmosphere of trust. That trust allowed Onyx to receive the help she needed without fear.


She released some of the fascial tension, and I was able to align the joints in her poll, neck, back, and legs. Still, given her fragile condition, I had little hope the adjustments would hold—or even make much of a difference.


But they did.


By the very next day, she was already walking better. She kept up with the group all the way to the beach. She wasn’t interested in the water or rolling in the sand, and her expression was dull—but she enjoyed grazing at the dive center afterward.


The morning walk to take the rescue horses to the beach is a magical time for both the humans and the horses. There are so many ways to incorporate rehab even with just a simple morning walk especially if you understand how effectively horses can entrain with the beings around them. I was conscious of my breath, my movements and my pace making sure she had time to organize her body to activate the correct muscles. It may sound strange but I moved how I wanted Onyx to move, I tried to carry myself with balance and ease in hopes she might mirror it.


For the next five days, she was mine for 90 minutes each morning. Step by step, breath by breath, we walked.


By the fifth day, she still hadn’t rolled but allowed herself to be coaxed into the ocean for a splash. Then, on the beach, I invited her to move. She offered a trot and a kick.


The entire group broke into cheers and laughter.


We all knew what that meant:


"I’m really feeling better!"


The horse I had been afraid I could not help, had just proved me wrong.


Within five short days, she was walking and trotting soundly, enjoying movement again. The tension in her face had disappeared, replaced by curiosity and engagement. Her once swollen, compressed hocks looked completely normal. Her back had lengthened, her lower neck and shoulder muscles were soft and activated—no longer stiff and overcompensating just to keep her upright.


Beyond the Physical


I believe these changes would have happened eventually, but speeding up recovery in this part of the world is invaluable. Resources are limited, and every day a horse improves means less money spent on prolonged care. The people who witnessed Onyx’s rapid transformation saw something new—a deeper understanding of how manual therapy can support even the most severe cases, alongside veterinary treatment.


As for me?


I am profoundly content and grateful to be a small part of such a transformative healing process.


My education and experience enable me to provide much more than what might initially meet the eye, and I can truly appreciate the worth of my work and time. My role in the world might not be conventional, but I am precisely where I am meant to be—assisting horses, driving change, and making a difference for the animals and the people who care for them.


 
 
 

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